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Barrio de la Rivera

The Ribera neighbourhood, located between Via Laietana and Ciutadella Park, is known as “el Born”, which is the name of the old Barcelona central market located in this area. Charming, near but out of sight of the sea, its narrow streets afford a glimpse of the gigantic monumentality of the basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, the decrepit townhouses of Carrer Montcada, the Picasso Museum and Born and Santa Caterina markets. A part of the neighbourhood was demolished after 1714 due to the construction of the Ciutadella Park. The area lived off the economic activity of the Born market for many years and after it closed, it took a long time to recover. It is currently a fashionable neighbourhood: its old taverns and warehouses have been converted into designer boutiques, restaurants and music bars frequented by the city’s most chic clientele.

RECOMMENDATIONS:In the daytime, the best plan is to lose oneself taking photographs in the maze of narrow streets that make up this neighbourhood. The bicycle is a good way to get around. At nighttime, it’s probably better to seek out the area’s bars and restaurants on foot.

Map

1.Santa Maria del Mar.

Completed in 1384, this is one of the city’s most beautiful churches, whose building work finished in 1384, after only 59 years work, funded mainly by sailors and fishermen. It is the finest example of Catalan religious architecture, with a notable harmony of proportions, structural simplicity and absence of superfluous ornamentation. It has a central nave and two lateral ones and is often used for performances of religious and classical music. The history of this church was the inspiration behind the bestselling novel La catedral del Mar by Ildefonso Falcones. In front of the side entrance is the Fossar de les Moreres, a square that pays homage to the Catalans who fell defending the city from the troops of Philip 5th in 1714. Plaza Santa María, 1.

2. Born Market

Opened in 1878, this was one of the first examples of the new architecture based on iron. When it became the central fruit and vegetable market, it gave rise to a large number of wholesale establishments and delivery agencies in the surrounding streets. After the central market was moved to the Zona Franca area in the 1970’s, the Born remained empty for many years. It has been undergoing reformation work for a number of years in order to become a cultural centre, a process complicated by the discovery of medieval remains in the year 2000, consisting mainly of the remains of the small streets that existed in the area before their demolition in the 18th century. Plaza Comercial, 12.

3. Passeig del Born.

This avenue links the steps of one of the façades of the basilica of Santa Maria del Mar with the former Born market. It is a place for strolling and chatting that contains a number of boutiques, restaurants and bars.

4. Picasso Museum/carrer Montcada

Containing Barcelona’s most important collection of the works of Pablo Picasso, this museum occupies a number of adjacent town houses. In fact, the visit allows one to discover this interesting street full of aristocratic mansion houses of medieval origin that declined when their owners decided to move to the Eixample. At number 20, you can find Palau Dalmases, headquarters of Omnium Cultural, a landmark organisation in the defence of Catalan language and culture. Although the building dates from the 15th century, its patio and some rooms, such as the rather pretentious bar, are actually baroque. At number 12, there is the ex-residence of the Marques of Lió, currently the home of the city’s Textile and Clothing Museum, where one can have a pleasant snack sitting on the terrace.

5. Santa Caterina Market

Located in front of the Cathedral, Santa Caterina Market occupies what used to be the site of a Dominican Convent. It gave its name to the surrounding neighbourhood and has recently undergone a colourful renovation project designed by Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue. Av. Francesc Cambó, 16.

6. Palau de la Música Catalana.

Built between 1905 and 1908, this concert hall was designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, one of the greatest representatives of Catalan modernist architecture. This year the Palau is celebrating its centenary and, after two decades of expansion and reform work, currently combines its priceless architectural value with modern concert hall acoustics. It has been the headquarters of the Orfeo Català, Catalonia’s most important choral society, since 1891. C/ Sant Pere Més Alt, 11.

7. Ciutadella Park

Originally designed by Josep Fontserè in 1872, with the help of the young Gaudí, this is the city’s most important park. It occupies what used to be the site of the despised citadel built by Philip V following the Spanish War of Succession. A well laid out complex of gardens, the park offers a number of interesting features such as the lake, the waterfall and a bandstand. It also contains a large number of open-air sculptures, cultural institutions like the Modern Art, Zoology and Geology Museums, as well as the city Zoo. The park is also home to the Catalan Parliament building.

8. Estació de frança.

Although it is now little used as a railway station, sharp eyed visitors will recognise this majestic construction dating from 1929 as the location for many adverts and films.

THE CURIOSITY:the finding of a Gothic mask. At the corner of Carrer Carassa and Carrer Mirallers there is a mask corresponding to the face of an angel, according to some and to a prostitute according to others. It disappeared in 1983 due to the reformation of the building where it lay, but was recovered two years later and placed on the reformed façade.

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SHOPS & RESTAURANTS

TEA SHOP

Dirección: Placeta de Montcada, 10

(También en TRIANGLE, BULEVARD ROSA, GRAN DE GRACIA, ILLA, DIAGONAL MAR)

Teléfono: 932 955 144

Web: www.teashop.es

In Tea Shop you will find more than 120 varieties of tea. High quality and full freshness joined to all the accessories you need to prepare and taste the best cup of tea. Come in and discover this world of unique and pleasant sensations. And now, discover Tea Shop Iced Tea, Gracia Blend® of Barcelona: a healthy, natural and calorie-free soft drink.more info.

Dirección: Argenteria 64

Teléfono: 93 310 33 61

Web: www.cafeselmagnifico.com

A world of living sensations: guaranteed authentic coffee types, whose aroma is capable of taking you away to the far lands where they were grown.more info.

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